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Collectors.

Buying by taste is a different exercise from buying to play. The questions change from how does it feel to what exactly is this, and what has been changed on it.


Originality is the whole game

On a collectible instrument, value tracks how much of the original object survives. A changed pickup, a refinished body, a swapped tuner, the wrong case — each one moves the price, and on the most collected models a single non-original screw is enough to be worth mentioning in a listing.

  • 01Neck and body stamps
  • 02Pot codes
  • 03Finish checking
  • 04Case candy

Player-grade is the affordable door

An instrument with a changed pickup or a repaired neck is worth a fraction of an all-original one and plays the same or better. If you are buying to use rather than to hold, this is where the value is. The premium on perfection is paid by people who are not going to play it.

Made in 1970 or earlier

Defunct and historic makers

Brands that stopped, and Japanese instruments from the period when copies got good. Both are where the surprises are, and both need the checks above more than a known model does.

  • 190Burns London (Bison, Marvin)
  • 191Eko 290 / Camaro
  • 192Harmony H44 / Jupiter
  • 193Kay K-161 Thin Twin
  • 194Mosrite Ventures Model 1958/1963
  • 195Regal resonators
  • 196Silvertone 1449/1457 amp-in-case 1962
  • 197Silvertone 1484 Twin Twelve
  • 198Stella (by Harmony)
  • 199Supro Dual-Tone / Valco
  • 200Teisco del Rey / Spectrum series
  • 233Bacchus Handmade Japan / Woodline
  • 234Burny RLG 1970s
  • 235Fernandes Sustainer models
  • 236Greco EG / EGF 1970s
  • 237K. Yairi
  • 238Momose
  • 239Tokai Love Rock (LS/LES) 1977
  • 240Tokai Springy Sound / Breezy Sound / Goldstar Sound 1977

Further reading

A cross-section of the archive